Most worn: Colette Moneta hacks





It feels a bit odd putting this pattern into most worn as I've only made it this year but I'm already getting lots of wear out of my first hacked Moneta, and this second modal version is also out a lot lately too! This is one of those times when you buy a fabric just because you love it, and then take ages to decide what to make with it. As it happened I realised I needed a dress that would look elegant enough to wear in a  nice restaurant, but was also appropriate for daytime rather than evening. It might also be the first time that I have used a border print fabric like this so I really wanted to do it justice and make best use of the pattern.


Fabric

This fabric came up on the Lamazi fabric Instagram feed and I bought it without hesitating because it looked so beautiful! They stock a range of Lillestoff modal knit fabrics and this one must have sold out pretty quickly because it's no longer on their site. These modals are quite expensive for my usual price range (£9.50 per half metre) but they are very high quality and not easily available. They are lightweight single knits with superb drape and a silky feel (modal is in the rayon family). This one has a pattern that repeats over 70cm or so. I bought 2m and had 2 and a half repeats. 

I cut this pattern out flat from this fabric to ensure that it was perfectly aligned. This meant that I could make sure that the same pattern repeat was at the top of the front and back bodices as well as the sleeves. If I hadn't been so precise it would have been very obvious! I also cut the skirt portions on a single layer - the front and back skirts are identical so you can join them together instead of tracing out a new piece. I specifically arranged the pattern so that the darkest part was at the waist and the brightest busiest parts were away from this (these parts draw your eye - I'd rather it wasn't drawn to my tummy!). I also cut a lining for the bodice as this fabric is fairly thin and I wanted a little more structure for a more professional finish. I only just got all the pieces out of what I had because of all this! I had to go for shorter sleeves than I would have liked as a result too.


I had no problems when it came to sewing this fabric - I was a little concerned about the hem and tried a few different options, including a twin needle. However, a simple zigzag stitch seemed to look the best so I continued with that. I didn't need Wondertape or any stabiliser - just pressed and pinned into place.

Pattern and Instructions

Almost identical to my previous Moneta....there a lot of details in my first post (click here) about the neckline alteration and the pattern itself so do check them out there.


Most worn: Colette Moneta hacks

Alterations

I used the same bodice pattern pieces that I had created from my previous Moneta to create a raised neckline from the original pattern. However, as I was lining this bodice my first step was to join the lining and the shell parts together first (eg front shell to front lining, right sides together). I turned these out to their correct sides and pressed, rolling the lining under slightly. At the cutting stage I had removed 1/8" from the neckline of the lining pieces which helped with the pressing. I didn't understitch because it might be too bulky. I then continued by treating the shell/lining as one piece and joined the front and back bodices at the shoulders, as per the pattern etc.



I changed the skirt again! I tested with the same pleats as my previous make and they just didn't look right. Instead I found that three knife pleats, at the same point, allowed the skirt to fall in a much more flattering style. This fabric has much more drape than the AGF jersey that I used previously and these smaller pleats encourage more movement. I tacked these in place then stitched the bodice to the skirt as normal. At the back pleats also did not work in any form due to the drape and the different shape of the body under the back skirt. In this case gathers between the two bodice notches were the most flattering.




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Hi, I'm Laura. Welcome to my journeys with modern, feminine dressmaking; pattern reviews, tips and guides for beginners. I'm a lifelong foodie, so you'll also find some delicious recipes and places to get that foodie fix.
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